Sicily is separated from mainland Italy by a narrow stretch of water called the Straits of Messina. Plans are intermittently advanced about spanning the Mediterranean at this point with a bridge that would be less than four kilometres long, but for various reason that hasn’t happened yet. The toe of mainland Italy remains resolutely out of kicking distance of the island ball that is Sicily – a gorgeous place, albeit one with climatic issues. Apparently 70% of the island is at risk of desertification and anecdotally it was not hard for us to understand why during our holiday there earlier this month. We had enjoyed a week of essentially cloudless weather. We left for the airport at Catania on a rainy morning – “the first rain we’ve had since the end of May,” said the taxi driver.

The Palazzo Beneventano in the Piazza Duomo in the heart of Ortygia, one of the grandest sights in this part of Syracuse

We were staying just outside Syracuse (or Siracusa, depending on whether you prefer the Italian or the Sicilian version). The ancient city itself, which in the southeast corner of the island, is partitioned in two by a narrow spur of the sea, with the port part being called Ortygia (see photo on the home page). One of the first sights you will see on making that crossing on foot are the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, which dates from the 6th century BC. These were discovered in 1860 inside an old Spanish barracks. Spain, you are perhaps thinking? Well yes. Most everyone – Romans, Greeks, Austrians, you name them, seem to have left some mark on this part of Sicily.

The church of San Francesco in Noto…if you watched White Lotus, you may recognise the Baroque staircase on which Portia and Jack had an intriguing conversation

Inland some 40 minutes’ drive away is the town of Noto. It was hugely reconstructed after an earthquake largely destroyed it in 1693. As a writer in the Daily Telegraph pointed out, I presume with tongue somewhat in cheek: “You just wish they made new towns like this today.” The cathedral of San Nicolo is pretty spectacular, and hardly alone when it comes to celebrating the Christian faith. According to a roster we saw, there are no fewer than 19 churches which hold services during the course of the week. And Noto is not big. Although, for its size, it is very big on cafes and bars.

The Greek theatre in Syracuse is an extraordinary historical monument, built in the 5th century BC and used for drama productions today

Among the things to see in Syracuse are the tomb of Archimedes, the greatest mathematician in ancient history and the guy who famously yelled ‘Eureka’ in his bathtub, and the Neapolis archeological park, set in an old quarry and containing, among other delights, the Greek theatre. So, yes, there is a lot to enjoy in these parts. And that’s not counting the sea. Also the traditional Sicilian pasta dish, which comes with sardines. Plus, of course, there’s the ice cream. Sicily is considered the European ‘home’ of that particular dessert. Enjoying a gelato is an integral part of any Italian holiday.